Vêtement masculin et Vêtement féminin

Vêtement masculin

Les ruraux considèrent la jebba comme un vêtement de cérémonie. Blanche l'été et grise l'hiver, c'est une tunique sans manches que l'homme porte par-dessus une chemise, un gilet et une culotte bouffante (appelée seroual). Les jours ordinaires, les hommes se contentent de simples pantalons et chemises sur lesquelles ils enfilent parfois un kadroun, tunique de laine moins large que la jebba et munie de manches longues. En hiver, ils passent un burnous de laine ou, dans le nord du pays, une kachabiya (manteau de laine à capuchon et aux rayures brunes et blanches).

En milieu urbain, le costume de cérémonie se compose d'une chemise de lin à col officier et manches longues. Le seroual est orné au bas des jambes et sur les poches d'une discrète décoration de passementerie. Une large ceinture coupée dans le même tissu fixe les plis tout en retenant le seroual à la taille. Une jebba de laine et soie complète le costume auquel on ajoute un burnous orné de passementerie en hiver. Les chaussures, des babouches en cuir, laissent le talon à découvert. Enfin, la coiffure d'apparat est une chéchia ou kabous, bonnet de feutre rouge qui ceint le front, parfois ornée d'un gland de fil noir. Pour une tenue décontractée pendant les heurs de loisirs, il arrive que le citadin revête une simple jebba.

 

Vêtement féminin
Jeune femme berbère de Tunisie (début des années 1900)
Jeune femme berbère de Tunisie (début des années 1900)

Le vêtement féminin est beaucoup plus varié que celui des hommes. En ville, la grande majorité des jeunes femmes ont adopté la mode européenne mais les femmes d'un certain âge, même en milieu urbain, s'enveloppent souvent d'un sefsari, voile blanc de soie ou de laine fine qui recouvre la tête et qu'elles portent sur une blouse et un pantalon bouffant. Ces silhouettes portant un sefsari font partie de l'image d'Épinal de la Tunisie au même titre que les maisons blanches et bleues de Sidi Bou Saïd. À la campagne, les femmes portent encore des robes aux couleurs vives. Ainsi, les femmes berbères portent la melhafa, pièce de cotonnade bleue ou rouge représentative de leur région ou de leur village. Le tissu s'ouvre sur le côté et est retenu à la taille par une ceinture et sur les épaules par deux fibules. Elles portent souvent des bijoux massifs sommairement ouvragés.

Les costumes de fête et de cérémonie diffèrent quelque peu selon les régions. Dans le Sahel, la pièce maîtresse du vêtement d'apparat est une robe drapée, en laine ou en coton, portée sur un corsage brodé de soie et d'argent, un gilet de velours orné d'or, un pantalon de dentelle et une ceinture en soie. Jusqu'au milieu du XIXe siècle, les jeunes mariées de l'aristocratie tunisoise portent un caftan taillé dans du velours, du brocart ou de la soie et richement brodé d'or et enrichi de pierres fines. De nos jours, certaines mariées des régions de Sousse et Hammamet portent encore un caftan aux manches mi-longues, ouvert sur le devant, et dont la longueur varie du genou à la mi-mollet. La richesse et l'originalité du costume reposent mois sur la coupe ou le tissu que sur les motifs tissés ou les broderies qui le recouvrent parfois totalement. Ces broderies utilisent des fils d'or et d'argent ou un contraste de fils rouges, bleus et noirs. Ainsi, celles de Raf Raf sont confectionnées avec des fils d'argent sur des gilets et des pantalons de soie violette.

Le port du hijab n'est pas très répandu en Tunisie bien qu'en augmentation relative depuis le début des années 2000. De fait, l'État l'interdit dans les écoles ou les administrations.

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